From the desire to be popular, to beauty as manners—the changing values of beauty｜２
--Based on what you said, the images of women created by Shiseido have been diverse, and have focused not only on exterior appearance, but rather, consistently reflected the intangible values of the times.
OnoLooking back, beginning with the contemporary designs and illustrations of Ayao Yamana (1897-1980), who created the Hanatsubaki logo, and leading up to the bold yet exquisitely trimmed photographs of women’s eyes and lips created by Makoto Nakamura, as well as the unique worldview of Serge Lutens, Shiseido has consistently produced new images of women for the times. As Ms. Kawahara explained, these images were established based on an overall depiction that comprises the models, the title copy, and the design. We could say that history has been built up in tandem with changes in the media forms of the illustration, photographs, and videos.
--How were the respective images of women for each brand of the times produced?
OnoDuring the first stage, we decided on the targets for products across the entire company. Simply put, we considered the question “Who do we want our products to be used by?” On top of that, we gradually closed in on more detailed images of the women in our minds, such as “What type of house does she live in?” or “What type of fashion does she enjoy?” This process helped to deepen our perspectives of the brand. While I am sure these were the first questions considered regardless of the era, these days we are probing them especially deeply.
--How are these images of women applied to the actual production of advertisements?
KawaharaIt differs depending on your job scope. For example, the advertisement for INTEGRATE that I worked on together with Ms. Ogata used the approximately 10 lines of text that she had written as a starting point. Based on that point, we expanded and developed the images of women.
--The copy created by Ms. Ogata, “Live Lovely ♥,” accurately captures and summarizes the image of the INTEGRATE woman in a single word, doesn’t it? I understand that the aim was to respond to Shiseido’s philosophy of “drawing out the inner beauty” of a person.
KawaharaWhen we think about the images of women, to begin with, we cannot avoid the question of “Why do they use makeup?” In the past, it felt as if there were many people who used makeup because they wanted to look beautiful for others; recently however, there are also many who use makeup for themselves, I suppose.
OgataWe often hear that women put greater effort into dressing themselves up for a girl’s night out, don’t we?! Modern women do not limit their communication to their boyfriends; they enjoy participating in various communities, and start to gain a different perspective on marriage. Their partners then become only one of the reasons to use makeup. The growing trend of considering beautiful skin as part of good manners, or associating it with a sense of well-being and as a reflection of one’s inner state of mind, are examples of apparent changes in the value placed on beauty. On the other hand, we can always say that makeup and skincare are “switches” that women use to change the way they feel.
KawaharaIt is true that we feel excited when we use new cosmetic products; conversely, we feel depressed when our skin is in a bad condition… I think that for women, becoming more beautiful is a concept that is directly linked to our brains.
OnoI think the idea of the “switch” that Ms. Ogata mentioned is an important one. From there, it can also provide the chance for one to take a step forward and gain confidence and courage, right?
The line art illustrations by Ayao Yamana were produced in the 1950s. Shiseido’s de Luxe series / Reference: Shiseido Advertising History
The illustration for the Shiseido Lipstick series was a work by Takushi Mizuno (1960s) / Reference: Shiseido Advertising History
The advertisement for Shiseido’s INTEGRATE brand, which was the first job for Mariko Ogata and Saiko Kawahara (2011)